After posting pictures of my work in progress Slaanesh Daemon army, I have been asked a lot (mainly on Reddit) for my colour recipes, so this blog post will go into the colours I’ve used.
All of the recipes I’ve used either follow exactly, or are based upon Eavy Metal recipes I either learnt at the ‘Foundations of Excellence’ course I attended or from guides posted on Instagram by the Warhammer Community team. I have found these really useful, an although they don’t go in to detail of the best way to apply the paint or what the best consistency would be, knowing the colours used, and plenty of practice means that I have found my painting has improved significantly.
For the dark skin of my Daemonnettes, I have used a recipe that was taught at the Eavy Metal ‘Foundations of Excellence’ course. It is also one of the colours I asked Eavy Metal member Aiden about in the one hour 1-2-1 session that is included in this weekend.
- I basecoat the skin with a 60/40 mix of Rhinox Hide and Cadian Fleshtone, this was done with two thin coats, which could stretch to three in places, in order to get a solid base colour.
- The shade was a 50/50 mix of Rhinox Hide and Abaddon Black. This was really thinned down and applied in the deep recesses and areas of natural shade. Again this was thinned down quite a bit do not to produce really dark lines, and applied with a small amount of paint on the brush so not to pool.
- Once the shading was dry, I applied a coat of 50/50 Rhinox Hide and Cadian Fleshtone. When applying this, I left the dark recesses and a bit of the basecoat visible.
- The first real highlight is approximately a 60/40 version of the basecoat, with Cadian being the prominent colour. This is applied on the raised areas of the hands, feet and face, as well as the more raised areas of the rest of the body.
- For the next couple of highlights I add a bit more Cadian Fleshtone to the mix, but only apply this to the feet, hands and face.
- I may then, depending on the model apply an almost pure dot of Cadian Fleshtone to the tips of the ears and nose.
- On the face I then apply a really really thing glaze of Khorne Red in and around the eyes, across the cheeks and around the lips. Once this has dried I reapply the last couple of highlight colours to the cheeks and lips to make the face look more natural.
The recipe for the Daemonnete claws is actually the Eavy Metal recipe for the wax used on Purity Seals. I was looking for a really in your face purple pink and this seemed the perfect colour.
- The base coat is a 50/50 mix of Khorne Red and Screamer Pink. This, as with all of the base colours is applied in two or three thin coats to get a pure vibrant base colour.
- I used Druchii Violet to shade these areas. For the toe's claws, I applied two thin coats of this ink where the claws meet the body. On the claws this was painted in to the recesses only.
- Screamer Pink was used next, much like when doing the skin this was painted on leaving the shade and part of the base coat showing
- Pink Horror was used for the first highlight on the Daemonnettes, and on the Fiend I actually added an extra step of 50/50 Screamer and Pink Horror to reduce the jump in colours
- White was added to the Pink Horror for the next highlight, this was painted within the Pink Horror Highlight
- A final dot of almost pure white was painted on the extreme tips of the claws and toes
The armour, corsets or whatever you want to define these pieces of the miniatures, was done following the Eavy Metal guide for painting a Space Marine's Crux Terminatus, shown below. I used water rather than Lamium Medium and made sure that the soft shade was done with a really watered down mix, but not applied too heavily to avoid pooling.
On the Fiend, I added a step, shall we call it 3.5, where I highlighted with a 50/50 Dawnstone/Administratum
There isn’t too much gold on the Daemonnettes, but the Fiends and some of the other bigger upcoming models have a lot more. This is another Eavy Metal masterclass recipe.
- The basecoat was Retributor Armour, this covers quite well, but two thin coats are advised
- I washed all the armour with a minimal coat of Reikland Fleshshade
- A 50/50 mix of Doombull Brown and Abaddon Black was the applied to the deepest recesses
- Liberator Gold was used next, this was applied over most of the areas, leaving the recesses and the more natural shaded areas alone
- The first highlight was a 50/50 mix of Liberator and Ironbreaker
- The final highlight was pure Stormhost Silver. This was applied on the more prominent edges
The last of the main areas of colour is the blue cloth. There isn’t too much of this on the model, but I found this spot colour really works. When the new Keeper of Secrets becomes available, I can see a lot of hard work being applied when doing its ‘cape’ this colour
The recipe for this is a slightly modified version of the guide given by the Eavy Metal team for the cloth on the Ionrach Enclave. Instead of jumping from Temple Guard in step four to Lothern Blue in step five, I added a step where a layer using a 50/50 mix of these colours was applied.
So there you go, that’s the main colours of my Slaaneshi Daemon army covered, I hope you find this useful if you are looking to paint similar colours. I would encourage you to check out the Eavy Metal guides posted to Instagram as they have helped me immeasurably. You don’t even have to be painting the same thing as the guide shows, they really help if there’s a colour you really cant nail down.